HERON PRESTON | FALL 2019 MENSWEAR

by NICK REMSEN / Vogue

When Heron Preston started preparing his Fall collection—which was inspired by, of all things, the Transportation Security Administration’s Instagram feed—he could not have known that that particular branch of civic employment would be disrupted by the ongoing partial government shutdown in the U.S. It was a coincidence, of course, but evidence all the same that Preston is rarely off-the-moment. The fact that his thinking began on social media—where arguably 99 percent of his fanbase lives and breathes—makes it all the more telling that he’s still one to watch.

That said, one got the sense that Preston was a little unsteady with Fall’s vision, and in that, some of the clothes became watered-down versions of stuff he’s done—better—in the past. The Cyrillic character logo for “style” feels—to the critical eye—played out at this point, and it was implemented frequently in this lineup. It may function as an ostensible semaphore for the brand, but Preston might consider moving on, and using more of his just-as-recognizable signature orange-tab logo. Another example: Last season’s workwear jackets were assertive and charismatic. Fall’s were plainer and less authoritative than what Preston is very capable of doing.

Where there were newer prospects, the designer cleared security and took off—the use of upcycled military-grade parachute nylon in outerwear, nicely done knit jumpers, and a collaboration with Nike on a new Huarache style all included. For women, there was a strong two-tone blue faux-fur coat, and equally smart leggings and bike shorts. With his sharp eye, an activewear segment from Preston might be interesting. And congratulations are in order no matter what your opinion: Preston reasserted that his brand is focusing on sustainability going forward and, on top of that, tonight marked his first runway show. “It links to the TSA, in a way,” he said. “I travel so much throughout the year . . . I’m always on runways.”


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