LAQUAN SMITH - SPRING 2021 READY-TO-WEAR

by JANELLE OKWODU/ Vogue

LaQuan Smith has always been able to create a come-hither outfit, but this season saw him move into brazen new territory. If fashion had an MPAA-style rating system, the line between R and NC-17 would be hard to gauge, and Smith pushes it continuously. Sexiness is always in demand, but whether a look registers as erotic or explicit depends on designer and wearer reaching a state of simpatico. Smith’s clients—Rihanna, Jennifer Lopez, the entire Kardashian-Jenner clan—aren’t known for holding back and neither is he. If you thought fall’s transparent evening dresses and vampy furs were as sultry as things could go, you might want to sit down before viewing Smith’s vision for spring.

The car culture of the ’70s served as the collection’s starting place, particularly the American obsession with pastel Cadillacs that signified wealth via their outré customizations. “I was obsessed with the concept and started finding these vintage Cadillacs in baby blue and ice mint,” shared Smith on the phone from Los Angeles. “I drew from the testimonies of my grandfather, who told us that back in the day in Brooklyn, he had a baby blue Caddy and dyed his poodle to match!” Such swagger was standard during the disco era when a fresh ride mattered as much as the clothes you wore. Inspired by ideas of “new money” and its attachments—Champagne, leather seats, extravagance as a lifestyle choice—Smith kept things flashing and automobile-focused. High-gloss catsuits and bustier gowns had the sheen of a fresh paint job, while prints with stacks of hundred dollar bills or Coupe DeVille covered bodysuits and slip dresses.

There were standouts among this first section—a bejeweled minidress destined to appear on a pop diva, metallized capri pants, and all manner of bustier tops—but things heated up toward the end. A series of looks focused on strategic cutouts was especially bold. Whether you love the idea of double-sided tape and jaw-dropping cleavage or find it unappealing, it is impossible to ignore the attention such dresses command. A turquoise jersey number on model Alanna Arrington fit like a glove in a look book image that could double as an ad for a gym membership. Much like Smith’s reference point—the risqué Richard Tyler number Toni Braxton wore back in 2001 to collect multiple Grammys—the creations require extreme confidence. “One of the fun things about what I do is that it is pushing those boundaries about what it means to be sexy,” says Smith. “There is a fine line, but when I’m designing these gowns, I’m thinking about a classic era in the most sensual way. You put that dress on, and it’s going to make you feel beautiful and sexy.”

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