SCHIAPARELLI PRESENTS THE HAUTE COUTURE AUTUMN WINTER 2021 COLLECTION
by ANNA MARIA GIANO / Vogue Italia
"It is the poet's finest wonder". Thus began Giambattista Marino in a remote seventeenth century baroque, establishing the goal of a profession that was born only by vocation. Looking today at the creativity of Daniel Roseberry , implemented for Schiaparelli , the impression is that a past of spectacularization, of the desire to entertain, to upset and not to sell, has finally risen from the ashes of a commercialized fashion, often the slave of a aesthetically correct thinking where only the usable is acceptable.
© Courtesy Schiaparelli
“A blatantly emotional collection, as dizzying as falling in love. A tribute to romance, excess, dreams. Is there anything more urgent today than dreaming big? To dream of a better world? To grasp each piece of beauty with both hands? " says Roseberry. And it is with intoxication and euphoria that the Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2021 fills our hearts, a wonder that is needed and that the eyes seem to drink greedily.
Guiding the designer's inspiration is the constant desire to update the past without being nostalgic : as fundamental as respect for heritage is, it does not become constricting and limiting, but on the contrary offers a basic imagination on which to build a new aesthetic. . With the Matador collection , Roseberry evokes the extremity of the forms of Madame Elsa , the perfect colorism of Christian Lacroix , draws fluidity in painting the curves of the body from Ingres' art, and from Manet the talent in representing human truths . And what is truer today than an urgent need to be amazed?
© Courtesy Schiaparelli
Three chapters in which the creative director articulates his narrative . The first is a tribute to the tailoring of the maison and to Elsa Schiaparelli's ability to build jackets . The structure is oversized and majestic, with wide barrel sleeves and tapered busts, where the combination of cut and decoration achieves an absolute balance. Denim replaces a more classic wool, vintage archival remnants are assembled to build a garment that condenses past and present , with metallic breasts and black tassels that play on a concept of nakedness and enhancement of the body, a hint of the buttock and a back discovery in lamé leather to decorate the derrière. There is also Jean Cocteau, which appears in the creation in black wool crepe with curved sleeves, a flourish of shell-colored Lesage silk rose embroidery reminiscent of a jacket made for Schiaparelli in 1937.
© Courtesy Schiaparelli
The story continues with a focus on the jewel and its interpretation of the continuation of the body. The jewel is not added, it is not intended as an accessory, but it is an expansion of physicality. A golden rose garden eludes the classic bustiers to propose a different vision of femininity, where the nipple is a bud. Emblematic and moving is the filigree necklace that branches off into the capillaries of the lungs, a celebration of that breath affected by almost two years of pandemic. The nose and belly, lips and ears, cast in gold or made of ceramic, the bijoux become embroideries and minaudiere, occupying and conquering new space in which the body can expand.
© Courtesy Schiaparelli
It ends with the chapter dedicated to color . A dogmatic black contrasts with vibrant colors of salmon pink and cornflower, with terracotta orange, lunar silver, a crisp Renaissance blue and milky white set as the brand's primary shades. Each tone is decisive and never just hinted at, there is no trace of nuance but the color is clear and absolute, it does not mix or be confused with the others, limiting the variety in favor of a chromatic precision that enhances every single shade of the collection .
© Courtesy Schiaparelli
“No more pieces that seem to have been made by anyone. No more cynicism. No more irony. No more shyness. Enough with the coldness. Give me more beauty, more seriousness, more romance, more commitment. I hope this collection reminds all who meet it of the pure joy that fashion can bring us in difficult times and with it, the promise of more joy as when the clouds part. Give me more fashion. Give me more hope ” concludes Daniel Roseberry.
The Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2021 collection is this, and much more. Ѐ the long-awaited return to that fashion which is creation and originality, which is non-contingent inspiration, unconstrained imagination, where the aesthetics on commission are supplanted by a magic that is an end in itself, finally cultivating a sublime that restores us from a famine of beauty.
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